Different Kinds Of Leathers We Use At RFC In Footwear Production
- Shrey Gupta
- Apr 7
- 4 min read
By Shrey Gupta, 7th April 2026
Leather remains the most popular material for footwear, prized for its durability, comfort and timeless style. It breathes, it moulds to your feet and when cared for properly, it can last a lifetime. But all leathers are not the same. Different types of leather offer unique characteristics that affect the look, feel and performance of shoes. Here is a look at these different kinds of leathers. We start with bovine leathers as those are most widely used in footwear production, making for approximately 95% of leathers consumed.
Here is a look at these different kinds of leathers. We start with bovine leathers as those are most widely used in footwear production, making for approximately 95% of leathers consumed.
Full Grain Leather
Full-grain leather is the highest quality leather used in footwear. It comes from the top layer of the animal hide and retains the natural grain along with any imperfections/scratches which gives each shoe a unique character. The fibre structure is the most compact and dense.
Full-grain leather is incredibly tough and ages beautifully. It develops a rich patina over time.
The natural grain allows air to pass through, keeping feet comfortable. The grains offer a lively surface that reacts to oils and waxes when polished carefully.
Used by top tier brands for high end dress shoes and boots designed to last long periods.
Top Grain Leather
Top-grain leather is the second-highest grade. It has had the very top layer sanded or buffed away to remove scars and blemishes and then a finish coat of pigments is applied. This process creates a smoother, more uniform surface.
More consistent look than full-grain leather, often with a polished finish.
Top grain leathers don’t respond as well to polishing. A basic shine is easily achievable though.
Slightly less durable than full-grain leathers but still strong. A decent choice at affordable price range for premium footwear.
A widely used leather in mid to premium segment shoes.
Genuine Leather Or Corrected Grain Leather
Here is the lowest quality of real leather that could be used for making shoes. Genuine leather refers to lower layers of animal hide that have a loose fibre structure and are always sanded off or embossed to create a surface that appears like a natural grain. Embossing plates are applied under high pressure to create that look before finishing off with layers of pigment/lacquer to achieve a natural shine. This is also how artificially textured leathers such as croc, ostrich, reptile or any other designer leathers are made.
The appearance is uniform but less natural-looking than full or top-grain leather.
Less durable due to the sanding process and loose fibrous structure.
Often found in budget-friendly shoes or mass-produced styles.
Practical for making shoes where different designs & textures are required.
Suede Leather
Suede is made from the under-side/split-side of the animal hide, which offers a nap and a velvet-like surface. It is softer and more flexible than other leathers but less resistant to water and stains.
Soft and pliable. Easily the most comforting leather on feet.
Vulnerable and prone to damage from moisture and dirt. Requires high maintenance. Can be treated with water & dust repellent sprays for enhanced life.
Common in casual and fashion footwear. Heavily used to make soft unlined constructions.
Nubuck Leather
Nubuck leather is made from the outer-side/top-grain of the hide, sanded to create a soft, velvety surface. It looks similar to suede but is more compact and durable because of being made from a better grade.
Suede like texture, however, a shorter nap.
Requires maintenance similar to suede.
Popularly used to casual shoes and boots for a relaxed casual look
Nubuck shoes combine comfort with style but need careful maintenance to keep their appearance.
Reverse Suede
Reverse suede is a special leather crafted from the underside/reverse-side of full grain leather. The direction of the leathers is reversed with the split side being used as the facing.
· Extremely tough to make with limited tanneries having knowledge and expertise to develop these leathers
· The nap is short as the upper layers of the hide are compact and not much fibrous.
· Excellent product for making unlined footwear for men.
Other Forms of Leathers
Besides bovine, there are hides from other animals used in the footwear industry. Let’s take a brief look at these options.
Sheep – Sheep skins are light, thin, soft and easily stretchable. These qualities make sheep leathers great for women’s footwear and other flexible summer shoes. Sheep leathers are also popular in trims where finer detailing is required. We, increasingly make use of sheep skins as an alternate for calf lining to create comfortable dress shoes. The supple nature of these leathers provides a luxurious feel.
Goat – Goat leather is another great product to work around with for women’s footwear. These are slightly thicker than sheep skins, offer higher durability and water resistance while maintaining the softness. Goat suede, which is made from the underside of the top grain, is a fantastic suede leather for women’s unlined footwear. The nap is shorter than cow's split suede. However, these leathers are much more supple to use.
Pig – Pigskins are slightly softer and thinner than bovine leathers but offer superb breathability. While mostly used in linings, some shoemakers make use of pigskins to create men’s dress shoes as well.
Exotic Leathers – There are numerous exotic skins used in high fashion luxury footwear segment such as crocodile, alligator, caiman, stingray, ostrich, etc. However, the import of such leathers is highly prohibited in India and hence we do not make use of these in our footwear production.
As a mark of responsibility, I would like to mention that we, at Rey Footwear Corp., work only with LWG certified tanneries and source ethically made leathers.
I look forward to an interaction with fellow industry experts, shoe retailers and most importantly the Indian consumers on what they think of this article and the different leathers used in the footwear industry. In case you wish to get in touch with my team or experience our shoemaking, do connect with us.
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